Short answer: Round brilliant diamonds are usually the most expensive—but the “why” goes deeper than popularity. Cut engineering, yield from the rough, labor time, and style trends all push round pricing above other shapes. Below, you’ll find a clear, nuanced guide to how shape affects cost—and how to choose the best look and value for you.
The Quick Answer (For Shoppers)
Most expensive shape (per carat): Round brilliant.
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Why: Lower yield from the rough, highest cutting precision, and the strongest global demand.
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Great-value shapes: Princess, cushion, radiant.
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Looks-big-for-the-weight shapes: Oval, pear, marquise (elongated “spread”).
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Clarity-conscious shapes: Emerald & Asscher (step cuts show inclusions and color more readily).
Why Round Brilliants Cost More
1) Yield From the Rough
To create a round, cutters often remove more material than with square or rectangular shapes. Lower yield (less finished carat weight from the same rough) means a higher per-carat price.
2) Cut Precision & Labor
Rounds are engineered for maximum light return with tight symmetry and proportions (think crown angle, pavilion depth, table %, and precise facet alignment). That precision costs more time and expertise.
3) Demand & Market Dynamics
Round brilliants are the most requested engagement-ring shape worldwide. High demand keeps prices elevated, especially in premium cut grades.
Price Reality: For the same carat, color, clarity, and comparable cut quality, round brilliants often carry a premium of ~15–35% over many fancy shapes. Actual differences vary by market conditions and specific stone quality.
How Other Shapes Compare (Cost & Aesthetics)
Oval
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Cost: Typically less than round.
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Why shoppers love it: Elongates the finger; offers generous face-up size (“spread”).
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Note: Watch for the “bow-tie” (a darker hourglass reflection). Well-cut ovals minimize it.
Cushion
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Cost: Frequently value-forward.
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Style: Vintage-to-modern versatility (cushion brilliant vs. cushion modified).
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Tip: Some cushions have deeper pavilions that reduce spread—compare stones side by side.
Princess
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Cost: Often among the best price-per-carat options due to efficient rough usage.
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Style: Crisp, modern geometry with strong scintillation.
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Care: Sharp corners benefit from protective settings.
Emerald (Step Cut)
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Cost: Usually less than round for the same grading, but…
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Nuance: Step cuts show inclusions and color more readily, so buyers often choose higher clarity and color, which can raise the total price you’ll want to spend.
Asscher (Step Cut)
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Cost: Similar logic to emerald; mesmerizing “hall of mirrors” effect.
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Nuance: Square outline means a bit less spread than elongated shapes.
Pear & Marquise
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Cost: Typically below round; can deliver the largest look-per-carat thanks to their length.
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Check: Symmetry and bow-tie darkness; pointed ends need careful protection.
Radiant
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Cost: Usually value-friendly.
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Style: Brilliant-style faceting with rectangular/square outlines—great fire and good spread.
Heart
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Cost: Can be comparable to round in certain sizes due to cutting complexity and yield.
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Tip: Hearts show best at larger sizes where the lobes are clearly defined.
Typical Price Positioning by Shape
For a Benchmark of:
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Carat: 1.00 ct
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Color: G
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Clarity: VS2
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Cut: Excellent (or equivalent for fancy shapes)
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Certification: GIA
…here’s an estimated price-per-carat comparison (USD) as of 2025 retail:
How to read this:
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A 1.00 ct round of this quality is often $7,500–$9,000.
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A 1.00 ct princess or marquise could be $1,500–2,000 less at the same quality level.
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Ovals and pears are trending upward (thanks to popularity), but still come in lower than rounds.
At larger sizes (2.00 ct+), the price-per-carat gap widens — rounds skyrocket fastest, while cushions, princesses, and marquises remain noticeably more affordable.
Cost Isn’t Just Shape: The Hidden Levers
Cut Quality (Especially for Rounds)
Cut drives brilliance (and beauty). A superbly cut fancy shape can outshine a poorly cut round—and command more than you expect.
Color & Clarity Strategy
Step cuts (emerald/Asscher) are honesty mirrors; you’ll see inclusions and warmer color more readily. Many buyers choose higher clarity/color, nudging price up.
Brilliant styles (round/oval/radiant/cushion/princess) mask inclusions better, letting you optimize clarity for budget.
Face-Up Size (“Spread”)
Shapes like oval, pear, marquise can look bigger at the same carat—sometimes letting you drop a bit in carat weight (and price) while keeping presence.
Trend Waves
Demand swings (e.g., the rise of ovals) can tighten price gaps. A trusted jeweler can help you navigate real-time market nuances.
Which Shape Is “Worth It” for You?
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Timeless brilliance & high resale familiarity: Round.
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More size for the money, elegant elongation: Oval, pear, marquise.
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Modern value & sparkle: Princess, radiant.
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Vintage sophistication, graphic lines: Emerald, Asscher.
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Romantic & distinctive: Heart, select cushions.
Little Treasury Tip: Bring your preferred shapes into the same lighting and compare side by side. Your eyes will tell you which stone “wakes up” for you.
Why Shop With Little Treasury Jewelers
As a family-owned jeweler serving the Baltimore–Annapolis community from our Gambrills showroom, we pair a warm, welcoming experience with deep gemological expertise.
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In-house experts: Diamond education, comparisons, and custom design.
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Bridal specialists: Engagement rings in every shape and style, from classic round to avant-garde fancy cuts.
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Services: Cleaning & inspection, sizing, appraisals, trade-up guidance, and lifetime care recommendations.
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Community roots: Proudly supporting local events and celebrating your milestones with you.
Schedule a diamond consultation to compare shapes in person and find the perfect balance of sparkle, size, and budget.
Visit Little Treasury Jewelers
Little Treasury Jewelers
2506 New Market Ln, Gambrills, MD 21054
Phone: (410) 721-7100
Store Hours
Mon–Fri: 10am–6pm
Sat: 10am–5pm